Side by side
| Factor | Epoxy | Polyaspartic |
|---|---|---|
| Role in the system | Base coat | Topcoat |
| UV stability | Ambers then chalks | Never yellows |
| Cure to recoat | 12-24 hours | 1-2 hours |
| Minimum temperature | About 10°C | About 0°C |
| Film build per coat | High | Lower |
| Cost per gallon | Baseline | 30-40% more |
| Working time for the crew | Forgiving | Short, skill-dependent |
| Installed cost | $8-$12/sq ft | $10-$15/sq ft |
| Days on site | 2 | 1 |
Gold marks the stronger option for that factor. A tie is shown in neutral text.
Choose an epoxy base when
You can give up the space for two days, the floor is indoors and away from direct sun, and you want maximum film thickness for the money. An epoxy base under a polyaspartic topcoat is the default specification for a reason: it is the most build per dollar with none of the UV downside, because the epoxy never sees daylight.
Choose full polyaspartic when
The space has to be back in service in a day, the slab is too cold for epoxy to cure, or the floor is outdoors. Those three cases justify the $2-$3 per square foot premium comfortably. Outside them you are paying more for less film thickness.
What most comparisons get wrong
They frame it as a choice between two products, which is how it gets sold rather than how it gets installed. Almost every quality floor is both. If a contractor is arguing hard for one over the other without asking about your schedule, your sun exposure or your slab temperature, they are describing what they stock rather than what your floor needs.
Not sure which applies to your slab?
The site visit includes a moisture reading and an honest look at the concrete, then a written fixed price. We will tell you when the cheaper option is the right one.