29 questions across 7 topics
Everything
people ask
Including the questions that make quotes look worse. Those are usually the useful ones.
Cost
A full-flake epoxy system with polyaspartic topcoat runs $8-$12 per square foot installed. A standard 2-car garage of about 500 sq ft is $4,000-$6,000; a single garage is $2,000-$3,000. Larger shop floors come down to $7-$9 per square foot.
Mobilising a crew, truck, grinders, extractors and product costs about the same whether the floor is 200 or 2,000 square feet. On a small floor that fixed cost spreads across very little area, so the rate per square foot goes up.
Almost always one of six things: acid etching instead of diamond grinding, partial flake broadcast instead of full rejection, one topcoat instead of two, low-solids water-based epoxy instead of 100% solids, no moisture test, or cracks coated over rather than repaired. Ask which in writing.
Yes. We take a moisture reading and inspect the slab before quoting, which removes the things that normally cause change orders. If something genuinely unforeseeable turns up mid-job, we stop and talk to you before doing anything that costs money.
A deposit covers materials, which are ordered to your specific colour and system. The balance is due on completion after you have walked the floor. We never ask for payment in full up front.
Timeline & Process
Two days for a standard flake system: grinding and base coat on day one, topcoats on day two. A full polyaspartic build compresses that into a single day. Metallic takes three days, quartz three to four, and polished concrete three to five.
Walk on after 24 hours and park on after 72 for a standard epoxy-base system. A full polyaspartic build is 4-8 hours to walk on and 24 hours to drive on. Polished concrete is in service immediately.
Not the way we do it. Grinders run to HEPA dust extractors that capture silica dust at the tool, and interior work is contained with poly and negative air where needed. You should not find a grey film on everything when we leave.
Yes, completely, including anything mounted to the floor. We can help move heavy items on the day, but the slab needs to be fully clear for grinding and for the coating to be continuous wall to wall.
100% solids epoxy is nearly odourless. Polyaspartic has a noticeable solvent smell during application that dissipates within a few hours with ventilation. For interior and occupied commercial work we use low-odour formulations and ventilate actively.
Durability & Failure
15-20+ years for a properly installed flake or polyaspartic system in a residential garage. Commercial floors in heavy traffic want a fresh topcoat around year ten. Polished concrete lasts 30+ years with no re-coat cycle at all.
Four causes: acid etching instead of diamond grinding, moisture pushing up through the slab, low-solids consumer-grade product, and hot tire pickup from thin or under-cured coatings. All four are decided before any resin is applied.
A tire that has been on the highway comes home hot and soft, and plasticizers migrate out of the rubber into a thin or under-cured coating. When the car moves, the coating lifts with the tire in a perfect tread pattern. Proper film thickness, a polyaspartic topcoat and a full 72-hour cure prevent it.
A coating follows the slab. If the concrete moves, the coating will eventually show it. That is why we chase and fill cracks with rigid polyurea, and why we honour control joints through the coating on slabs that are still moving rather than filling them flush.
Flake floors repair almost invisibly: we grind the area, re-base, hand-broadcast matching chip and re-coat the section, and because the pattern is random the patch disappears. Solid colour and metallic floors cannot be spot-repaired the same way and need a section re-worked.
Moisture & Slab Condition
Concrete on grade without a working vapour barrier moves water vapour upward continuously. Sealed under a coating, that vapour builds pressure until it pushes the film off, usually in year two, in domed bubbles with white residue underneath. The test predicts it before it happens.
The floor can still be coated. The system starts with a 100% solids moisture-vapour-barrier primer rated to resist the pressure, with the decorative build going on top as normal. It adds $2-$4 per square foot and it is not optional where readings call for it.
Not immediately. Fresh concrete holds a lot of water, and the old rule of thumb is 30 days of cure per inch of thickness before coating, and we still moisture test rather than relying on the calendar.
The old coating comes off first: diamond grinding for thin or failing films, shot blasting for thick or well-bonded ones. Coating over a partial failure guarantees the new floor fails along the same lines. Removal adds $1-$3 per square foot.
Weather & Scheduling
In a heated space, year-round. Epoxy effectively stops curing below about 10°C, but polyaspartic cures down to roughly 0°C. Unheated detached shops need either temporary heat held through the full cure window or scheduling between April and October.
Yes. Concrete has enormous thermal mass and lags well behind the air, so a garage can read 15°C in the air with a 6°C slab. Resin cures against the slab, so that is what we measure, along with dew point, since a slab colder than dew point carries an invisible moisture film that destroys adhesion.
Yes, with a UV-stable polyaspartic system, standard epoxy ambers and chalks outdoors within a season. Exterior work needs a stable weather window and slab temperatures in range, which realistically means May through September with shoulder months depending on the forecast.
DIY & Alternatives
No. They are 40-50% solids water-based epoxy applied over acid etch, producing roughly a tenth the film thickness of a professional system on a surface that was never properly opened. Most lift under hot tires within one to two seasons, and removing the failure costs more than doing it properly would have.
For lifespan and maintenance, yes, polishing has no film to peel and lasts 30+ years with no re-coat cycle. For colour control, covering a damaged slab and chemical resistance, epoxy wins. The condition of your slab usually decides it rather than preference.
A penetrating lithium silicate densifier at $1.50-$3 per square foot hardens the surface chemically and stops a slab dusting, with no film to fail. If dusting is the only problem you are solving, it is genuinely the right answer and we will tell you so.
Care & Warranty
Dust-mop weekly and damp-mop monthly with a pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid citrus, vinegar and other acidic cleaners, which dull the topcoat over time, and avoid soap-based products that leave a hazy film.
Not with a polyaspartic topcoat, provided spills are cleaned up within a reasonable time. Petroleum products, brake cleaner and hydraulic fluid wipe off without staining. Battery acid and pooled solvents are the exceptions worth acting on quickly.
Workmanship is warranted against delamination and adhesion failure. The specific term goes in writing on your quote alongside the manufacturer product warranty, so you have both documented. Damage from parking before full cure, impact and abrasion are not covered. Those are use, not defects.
A residential garage rarely needs anything beyond cleaning for 15-20 years. A commercial floor in real traffic wants a fresh topcoat around year ten. A one-day job of light abrasion, clean and two coats, done before the topcoat wears through to the decorative layer.